Frequently Asked Questions

Lots of people contact us and we love talking about all things dog, but time is limited so if you could take a quick look at these FAQs before getting in touch we would be really grateful.

The FAQs are organised into five major categories listed below.

Click on a title to see all the FAQs within that category, then click on the question to see the answer.

FEEDING ADVICE

Can I feed puppy food to my adult dog?

Occasionally eating the wrong food for their developmental stage will not harm your dog. However we would recommend that you do not feed your pet an inappropriate life-stage food regularly.

Our pets have a different Kcal and nutritional requirements from when they are puppies through to adulthood and our diets are specially prepared with this in mind.

Feeding your dog the incorrect diet could result in either malnutrition or obesity.

Can I feed cat food to my dog?

We receive many letters from the general public telling us how they feed their dog on cat food products and vice versa. However, research into the feeding of pet animals clearly shows that the needs of cats and dogs differ. For this reason, we take considerable trouble in establishing product recipes to take account of these differing requirements. As a general rule, we recommend that the health of your pet is best catered for by feeding it on those products specially made for it.

How do I convert grams to ounces?

Simply divide the grams figure by 28 to get ounces. For example 336g = 12oz

How can I change my dog over to Pedigree™ food?

Any dietary change should be made slowly to avoid any tummy upset. Gradually introduce Pedigree™ over a 5-10 day period by mixing very small amounts of Pedigree™ into your dog’s current diet.

Increase the amount of Pedigree™ and reduce the amount of your dog’s old diet at each meal time until your dog’s meal consists entirely of Pedigree™.

My dog isn’t eating very well – is there anything I can do to encourage him to eat?

Dogs may go off their food from time to time and there are a number of ways of encouraging them to eat:

Try heating canned/pouch food to body temperature before feeding.

Dry food can also be heated in the microwave for a few seconds. This can enhance the aroma and encourage your dog to eat. Usually ten to fifteen seconds is enough time depending on your microwave. Check the temperature before you offer the food to your dog.

Dry food can be moistened by adding hot (not boiling) water. Offer the food to your dog when the meal has cooled and the food has soaked up the water.

If feeding dry food on its own try mixing a small amount of Pedigree™ pouch into the feed so that the kibble is well coated.

Can I soften Pedigree® Complete™ with water before feeding?

Most dogs enjoy the crunch of dry food however there may be times when you may want to soften the dry food, for example when your dog gets older and has perhaps lost some of his teeth.

Moisten the dry food by adding hot (not boiling) water. Offer the food to your dog when the meal has cooled and the food has soaked up the water.

Dry feeding should be encouraged because of the benefit to your dog’s dental health.

My dog is overweight, what should I do?

Need to take some weight off your dogs shoulders?

40–50% of all dogs are now obese, causing all kinds of health problems. Usually the cause is simple: too many calories and too little exercise. So what do you do to get your squirrel-chaser back?

The first step is to visit the vet. He’ll tell you whether the cause is diet-related or if there’s a more serious cause such as a thyroid problem or diabetes.

Suddenly reducing your dog’s food intake will just result in him being hungry and unsettled. So your vet will help you structure a calorie-reduced diet that still provides all the nutrients he needs. He’ll also tell you the maximum amount of weight your dog can safely lose a week.

One thing’s for sure, those yummy titbits from the table might be his favourite but are probably best left out of his diet for a while. The good news is there are still low-calorie treats that you can give him. Large dogs love ice cubes, and carrots should also prove popular (just not too many as they might cause diarrhoea).

How to help increase his levels of exercise

Walking and running are what all dogs love! Some might be a little slow but the one way we can all show our love to our furry friends is through lots of the W.A.L.K.s. If he hasn’t been excercising much, start with a brisk ten-minute walk a day, increasing it to 20 minutes after a couple of weeks. If you have a family, share the walks – two a day is ideal. Try playing games with him and think of it as a great way to increase everyone’s exercise.

If he’s only a little overweight:

• If your dog usually leaves food in his bowl, don’t leave it for him to eat later on. If he’s not eating it at mealtime, he doesn’t really need it.
• Check that he’s not finding food anywhere else – it could be something as innocent as his neighbour’s bowl or the garden.
• Is he begging for food when he’s just bored? Try a game of fetch with his favourite chew toy instead.
• Consider the Pedigree™ Weight Control products which keep your dog fuller for longer, contain 30% less fat and still 100% complete

Here’s looking forward to a leaner, happier dog.

How do I store canned/pouch dog food once opened?

The contents of any canned or pouch foods are at their best when freshly opened and used quickly.  The cooking process is a natural preserving process, but once the can or pouch has been opened the contents should be treated like fresh food.  If there is more food than you need for one meal for your pet, the remainder should be transferred to a good quality plastic container with a lid and kept in a refrigerator until the next meal.  You should aim to use the total contents of a can or pouch within 48 hours of opening.

When storing petfood in a refrigerator, a useful tip to remember is to remove it in time for it to reach room temperature before the next meal is due. Your pet will appreciate this as petfood is not as appetising when it is very cold and could upset delicate stomachs.

Can I feed my dog a home prepared diet?

Home prepared diets are difficult to measure in kilocalories and nutrients. For this reason, we do not recommend feeding them to your pet.

It is important to remember our pets require a balanced diet with the correct levels of vitamins, minerals, proteins and fats etc. This can be hard to achieve in a home prepared diet and very occasionally can lead to nutritional deficiencies and imbalances. In contrast a commercially prepared diet such as Pedigree® for dogs or Whiskas® for cats will ensure that a nutritionally balanced diet is fed at all times, which is important in maintaining the health of your pet.

­Why shouldn’t I feed my dog chocolate?

Chocolate contains a compound called theobromine (similar to caffeine) which is poisonous to dogs and cats. Theobromine is also present in cocoa beans, cola, and tea.

The dog only needs to ingest a relatively small amount of theobromine to cause poisoning symptoms, approximately 90-250mg of theobromine per kg body weight. An average 100gm bar of plain chocolate will be sufficient to poison a small dog. Cocoa beans contain the highest level of Theobromine (approximately 43mg/gm) whereas white chocolate contains the lowest amount (approximately 0.009mg/gm).

When the dog ingests Theobromine, it causes a release of epinephrine (adrenaline). This causes the heart to race and the heart rate can become irregular. Clinical signs that you may see in a dog with chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhoea, excessive salivation and thirst, hyperactivity followed by depression and coma, and seizures. It is potentially fatal. Absorption of the chocolate can be slow, so there may be some delay between the eating of the chocolate and the dog showing the symptoms of poisoning. If you suspect that your dog has eaten a large quantity of chocolate, call your vet immediately.

There is no antidote for theobromine poisoning, so treatment involves inducing vomiting, as this will help the dog expel the chocolate and reduce the amount he digests. The vet may also give charcoal, as this can reduce the absorption of the chocolate remaining in the stomach and intestines. Drugs to stabilise the heart may be necessary as well as intravenous fluids and drugs to prevent shock.

Dogs can be very determined if they can smell chocolate, so it is best to keep chocolate and other products containing theobromine out of reach and advise friends and children to give treats which are suitable for dogs to eat. There are specially formulated dog chocolates available that are safe for dogs.  We can recommend Pedigree® Chocolate Rodeo™ which are available from the pet aisle of Supermarkets and all good pet stores.

DENTAL CARE ADVICE

Should I brush my dog’s teeth?

Taking care of your dog’s teeth.

Believe it or not, dogs need dental care as much as people do. By the age of three, 80% of dogs show signs of gum disease, caused by a build-up of plaque and tartar.

The good news is that regular brushing and specially designed chews can help to keep his grin in tip-top condition – and our experience is that your dog will grow to really enjoy having his daily brushing.

Toothbrushing – in five easy stages.

You’ll need special dog toothpaste, clean hands and short nails, a soft-bristled pet ‘fingerbrush’, water and a little patience. Each of the following stages takes about five minutes and needs to be repeated for at least five separate days before moving on to the next stage. Wait until your dog is comfortable with each stage before moving on.

1. Tasting the paste: Choosing a time when your dog is relaxed, simply smear a little toothpaste on your finger and allow your dog to lick it off, praising him all the time. 2. Getting used to your finger: Smear your index finger with toothpaste, but this time, glide it over his teeth and gums, going only as far into the mouth as he is comfortable. Repeat 6-8 times, praising him all the time. With your other hand, form a bridge over his muzzle and gently lift his lips. Repeat and praise 3. Brushing the canines: When your dog is comfortable with the above, move on to using a soft-bristled finger brush. First let him lick some toothpaste from it, then glide it up and down over the teeth and gums on the sides of his mouth and gums while lifting his lips with your other hand. 4. Adding the back teeth: As above, but gently moving towards the back of the mouth, top teeth first, then the lower jaw, using a circular motion. 5. Adding the front teeth: Bridge his muzzle with your spare hand, then lift his lip with finger and thumb and brush with an up and down motion.

Remember, keep it fun and he’ll soon be looking forward to his daily tooth grooming sessions.

Pedigree™ Dentastix with its unique 'X' shape and special texture will help reduce plaque build-up by up to 80% when fed daily.

GENERAL CARE ADVICE

Why does my dog need vaccinations?

The purpose of the vaccinations is to protect your dog against diseases but also to enable the vet to give the dog a regular check up. Some of the diseases that your dog can be vaccinated against are life threatening and can be spread quite easily to other dogs.

The first vaccination is normally given to puppies at about 8 weeks of age, with a second dose given at approximately 10-12 weeks. Your puppy will not have full protection until approximately 2 weeks after the second vaccination has been given. Yearly booster vaccinations are given to maintain your dog's immunity.

The diseases that your vet can vaccinate your dog against are canine distemper, canine parvovirus, canine parainfluenza virus, canine infectious hepatitis, leptospirosis and bordatella bronchiseptca (kennel cough). Your dog will not be vaccinated against kennel cough as a matter of routine, but it is advised for dogs that have a lot of contact with other dogs, such as at dog training classes, dog shows, or for dogs that are going into kennels.

I think my dog has got fleas – what should I do?

Diagnosing, treating and preventing fleas.

Why does my dog keep wriggling on his back? And scratching? Hang on, what’s that on my ankle?

Fleas are incredible little creatures. They can be stood on without coming to any harm, then leap a hundred times their own height. And their eggs can survive for years. Unfortunately they’re also the most common canine pest, cause severe itching and allergic reactions and can even pass on tapeworms. So how do you get rid of them and their eggs before you all become flea food?

Diagnosing dog fleas.

First, learn to spot the early signs. Get suspicious if he starts scratching constantly, has a dry skin, an allergic condition, or starts biting his rear end, tail or inner thigh. Examine his skin, especially near his tail, and his bed. If he’s infected, you’ll find little clusters of black specks. These are the fleas’ droppings. If you want to be sure, drop some into water. The blood in them will stain the water pink.

Treatment of dog fleas.

Because they’re such a common problem, there’s now a huge range of treatment options available at every price level, from simple herb supplements to flea collars and electronic and biological control. Your choice depends on how your dog reacts to the treatment, the degree of infestation, and what advice fellow dog owners can offer. Remember, don’t just treat your dog and his bed, the eggs could be all over your house. Relentless vacuuming – in every nook and cranny – is the only answer.

Preventing a dog flea infestation.

You can’t stop your dog from picking up a flea on his travels. But daily grooming is the best way to catch them early. Use a fine-tooth comb and drown any fleas in soapy water.

How often should I worm my dog?

Diagnosing and treating dog worms.

Dogs find each other’s faeces intensely fascinating. Which is why worms are such a concern for dog owners. Roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, and whipworms are all easily ingested – causing various symptoms and diseases. However, a healthy dog may not exhibit any symptoms for quite some time, so make it top of the checklist when you take your dog for his regular visit to the vet’s.

Helping to prevent dog worm infection.

You can’t always monitor what your dog licks or eats. But it’ll help to remove any faeces that you find around your home – while obviously also picking up after your own dog. Remember, dog worms can easily infect people too, especially children.

In the meantime, get your dog to the vet if he shows any of these symptoms of worms:

• a hot, dry nose
• tired, listless behaviour
• poor appetite
• weak, watery eyes
• pale lips and gums
• foul breath
• a hacking cough
• a red, pimply or irritated skin condition
• a constantly shedding, dry coat
• and, of course, an itchy bottom that he drags along the carpet. Nice.

Should I have my dog microchipped?

Microchips are a small chip about the size of a grain of rice that is implanted under the skin of you pet. This provides a permanent and tamperproof method of identifying an animal. Each chip has a unique code that is identified by a scanner. Most veterinary practices, police stations, rescue centres etc have these scanners to detect the chip.

A central database holds all the information related to the pet such as the pet’s name, colour, breed, sex, age and the owner’s address and contact details. This means that if the pet is found without its collar, the chip will be able to reunite the pet to its owner. If you move address or change your phone number, the database details will need to be updated; the chip itself remains the same.

Microchips can be implanted at most ages. Puppies can have the chip given at the time of vaccinations. Some vets prefer to give the microchip at the time of second vaccination so not to stress the animal at the first vaccination, which is often the first visit to the vets.

Microchips are much more on the increase, possibly due to the requirement for pets to have the chip for travelling overseas. It is also a very quick, safe and cheap way to permanently identify your pet. The best person to discuss the microchip and cost with is your vet.

Even if the pet is microchipped, a collar and tag is a good means of identifying your pet. By law all dogs on the highway or in a public place must wear a collar and identity tag. You could be fined if you fail to comply.

How can I get my dog used to the car before taking him on holiday?

Travelling with your dog.

Going on holiday? For most dogs, a car journey is one of the best adventures. But for some, it can be a terrifying and thoroughly uncomfortable experience. How do you make sure your dog reaches his destination safe, well and happy?

The first essential is a collar and ID tag – a legal requirement. For additional peace of mind, a microchip implant could reunite you if he loses his collar.

If you’re planning a long journey and your dog’s a nervous traveller, have him checked over by your vet first. Ask about a sedative for your dog – the vet may be able to prescribe one that you can administer yourself.

If he suffers from motion sickness, don’t feed him within the hour before you begin your journey. And be extra careful when braking, accelerating and cornering.

Dogs aren’t allowed in the front of the car, but can sit on the rear seat and in the rear of a hatchback or estate car. Small dogs can be transported in a pet carrier, which usually makes them feel most secure and can be strapped to the seat. Alternatively, he can wear a harness that fixes to the seat belt.

Take plenty of water, and stop regularly to let him drink and stretch his legs. And don’t leave him alone in the car: dogs can’t control their temperatures by sweating the way we do and it can quickly get fatally hot in a stationary car.

Air travel.

When travelling by air, ask the airline well in advance about its rules for dog transport. Your dog will travel in the cargo hold in a specially designed crate, and you’ll have to be extra early for your flight. If going abroad, contact your vet as far in advance as you can to find out about vaccinations, health certificates and a dog passport.

Pedigree™ have partnered with the Cottages and Dogs Trust, which provide access to thousands of self catering cottages that are pet friendly – and what’s more your pets always go free! If you book your holiday through the Dogs Trust cottage site an automatic donation of 10% of the cottage element of your holiday is sent to Dogs Trust who contribute in helping homeless dogs provide loving homes.

My dog is getting stiff joints – what can I do?

Treating joint stiffness with Pedigree™ Joint Care®

Watching your dog lose his natural bounce can be heartbreaking. That’s why it’s so important for both of you that you can recognise the signs and do all you can to help him.

How your dog’s explosive growth affects his joints.

Dogs grow extremely fast. Giant breeds will increase their bodyweight by a factor of over 100 in their first year of life. This means that the bones, ligaments and cartilage that form his joints may not have enough time to strengthen before they are subjected to the stresses of running and jumping under large loads. So after a few years, the stresses and strains start to affect your dog and he simply starts to slow down.

Joint Care® and Joint Care +®

Pedigree™ Joint Care® ™ and Joint Care® +™ is a tasty treat containing CPA Complex™, a unique blend of natural ingredients that, when fed daily, are scientifically proven to help ease joint stiffness keep joints healthy. They contain:

• Omega 3 helps promote joint flexibility.
• Green Lipped Mussel Powder is a rich source of chrondroitin, which helps to provide building blocks for healthy joints.
• Glucosamine, naturally derived from shellfish, helps the everyday re-building of joint tissue.
• Methionine (Joint Care® + only) helps support the body’s natural regeneration process.

Six weeks to a bouncier dog.

To see the difference that Pedigree™ Joint Care+® can make, it’s best to feed your dog a treat every day. And after around six weeks you may well start to see a happy improvement in your dog’s mobility.

Find out more

I need some advice on neutering.

When do dogs reach puberty?

Puppies normally reach puberty any time from six months old and they’ll have just the same problems with ‘raging hormones’ that any teenage human might have. If you find your dog’s behaviour challenging as he gets older you can find help at your vet or a specialist training centre. Despite some advice you may hear, this behaviour will not automatically be resolved by neutering. Try not to worry – it soon passes!

At puberty a bitch will start to be ‘in season’ for around three weeks, every six months (and are fertile during this time). If you decide not to neuter her this will continue throughout her life. When she’s in season she should not be taken outside (other than in the garden) or allowed to mix with male dogs.

As male dogs reach puberty they start cocking their legs and you may observe an increased interest in other dogs as well as increased independence, ‘mounting’ behaviour and ‘macho’ behaviour with dogs and people.

To neuter or not to neuter?

Unless you are going to breed from your dog, you should consider neutering. This has some health and behavioural benefits, but there are downsides too so you should discuss these in detail with your vet. Whatever you decide, you can rest assured that both male and female dogs still make affectionate and home-loving pets after being neutered.

BEHAVIOURAL ADVICE

Our top training tips.

Five essential dog obedience tips.

Do you obey your dog’s every bark? Get back to basics with some simple tips based around the natural, happy way dogs think. And get your friendship back on track.

1. You’re the boss.

If your dog is given free reign in your house, he’ll assume that he’s the pack leader and can do what he likes. Come down hard until he knows his place. No sofa, no bed, no titbits. And talk to him in a firm voice of authority.

2. Be consistent.

If you let him on the bed, but your partner pushes him off, you’re going to have one very confused dog. So you, and everyone involved in his life, need to agree on what is and isn’t allowed and stick to the programme relentlessly.

3. Only correct your dog in the act.

Say you arrive home one day to find the corner of your Persian rug in tatters. Shouting at and punishing your dog might make him fear you, but he’ll never associate his past actions with your present displeasure. Punishment is not advisable, and only ever works if you catch your dog 'in the act'.

4. Keep it simple.

You’ll have a lot more success with a simple command like 'No' than with a mixture of 'Don't do that', 'Stop it' and 'Oi!' Get everyone to stick to the same commands. ‘Down’ won’t work if he’s learnt to 'Sit'. 'Catch' won’t work if he’s learnt to 'Fetch'. That’s because it is not the words he recognises but the sounds. Make sure when you speak to him you do so in an expressive voice so that ‘good boy’ and ‘no’ sound as different as possible.

5. Repeat, Reward and Reinforce.

Remember the three R’s of training. Your furry friend needs a learning routine just as much as you ever did at school. Repeat the same technique again and again, with heaps of praise and his favourite treats, and don’t move on to a new ‘trick’ until he’s mastered the previous one.

Find out more about obedience

How can I stop my dog from chewing?

Keep your dog from chewing anything that takes his fancy?

If we had an extra sensory organ in our mouths, we’d probably spend all day chewing as well. In dogs, it’s their snouts. They get enormous pleasure from it: when teething, to settle adult teeth or just to explore their environment. But it’s your environment too and you probably prefer it without too many tooth marks.

It is important to teach him the difference between shoes and chews. So make the boundaries absolutely clear. Supply plenty of chew toys with different textures and shapes. Then let him know what’s his and what’s yours by giving loads of praise every time he makes the right choice.

My dog is eating his/her own faeces – what can I do?

As off-putting as it seems, there is a natural explanation for this less than endearing behaviour. The eating of faeces is known as ‘coprophagia’ and is most often seen in puppies (they mimic the behaviour of their mother who will eat their faeces to keep the nesting area clean).

Most puppies quickly grow out of it. But occasionally an adult dog will indulge in a spot of farm manure or another pet’s poop. Yum.

The best way to avoid this behaviour is simply to remove the opportunity! Keep your garden poo-free and gently pull or call your dog away from temptation when you’re out for a walk.

Sometimes coprophagia is caused by a dietary imbalance, so check that you’re feeding your dog the right amount and type of food to suit his needs.

My dog is soiling indoors – what can I do?

Toilet training your dog.

When a dog’s got to go, a dog’s got to go. That means as soon as he wakes up, a few minutes after every meal, and at regular intervals in between. His only concern is to do it away from where he eats and sleeps, and if that’s in your bedroom or behind the sofa, that’s OK by him. You would probably prefer it somewhere else, so you need to toilet train him. When he starts to ‘circle and sniff’, you don’t have a moment to lose. Get him outside to a convenient spot, tell him clearly what to do, then reward him with praise and a treat when he does it. Soon enough he’ll get the idea and give a bark or two to warn you – ignore this at your peril. Just make sure you're extra patient. Accidents will happen; but if you’re ever concerned we’d recommend you consult your vet.

How do I introduce my new dog to my cat?

Firstly don’t worry, it can be done. You just need to make sure that introducing this new family member to your cat happens in a calm, controlled way. This helps them both to feel at home.

Try using an indoor pen for the initial 'hello' – keeping your dog in the pen with his food, water, bed and some favourite toys. Put the pen in the busiest part of your house. That way your dog can get used to all the normal comings and goings, and your cat will get the chance to investigate at his own pace.

When they both seem more used to each other's presence, try feeding your cat outside the pen while your dog has his food inside. It’ll help them grow more comfortable with closer contact.

Next, try calmly introducing them without the pen. It’s a good idea to have someone else around to help with the first few meetings. Gently restrain your dog and allow him and your cat to get a good look and sniff at each other. Use food as a distraction if things start to turn less than friendly.

Over the next few days, bring your dog out of his pen more frequently and let him have a good look around. As the two housemates become friends, you can increase the contact between them but keep supervising for a while. They both need access to safe places if they start to feel threatened.

Be patient, and after a while they should be getting along famously in a relaxed and happy relationship.

How can I stop my dog from jumping up?

Training your dog not to jump up at people.

Going face to face is how dogs like to say hello. And why wouldn’t you want to hug your best friend after all those long minutes apart? Well, sometimes people just don’t know how friendly he’s trying to be. They can be a bit overwhelmed. That’s why it’s important to discourage jumping up and avoid any confusion. You can do this by:

• Gently stepping towards him as he jumps up – it’ll put him off-balance
• Totally ignoring him until he calms down
• Praising him for behaving properly

Keeping him on the lead with a firm grip means you can gently pull him sideways when he tries to jump up at your friend, taking him slightly off-balance. Ask your friend to ignore him until he calms down, and make a fuss over him when he behaves. Repeat, reward and reinforce.

How can I stop my dog from chasing everything?

Understanding the power of the chase!

Once learnt, the thrill of the chase is almost impossible to ignore. Anything that takes your dog’s eye will seem like the next best game. Great fun for him, but hard work for you unless you take steps to manage it. There are tried and trusted ways to control his urges and help prevent this becoming a habit you can’t break.

To keep his chasing in check, take firm control of him when you meet new things and people, Cats, children, cars and other dogs are specific things to watch out for. Keep him on a lead and let him use his senses to feel comfortable, rather than to treat these meetings as a game of hide and seek. Also, train him to ‘Come back’ when you say so, rewarding him again and again and again. And again. And again. Your reward is a brilliantly behaved dog, both on the lead and off.

How can I stop my dog from barking constantly?

Dogs love attention. And they quickly discover that barking is a great way to get it. What’s more, it’s even more fun if they can get you to shout back at them. A lot of people end up unable to answer the doorbell, make a phone call or have a cuddle with their partner without putting the dog in another room first – where, of course, he’ll bark anyway.

However, there is a way to cure your dog of his barking habit before your neighbours stop talking to you. Ironically, the first step is to train your dog to bark on command.

Do whatever it is that usually sets him off – like making the phone or doorbell ring. When he barks, praise him while repeating the word ‘speak’. Once he associates the word with barking, you’ll be able to get him to bark on command.

Great, you say, but how do you make him stop again?

Try this. While he’s barking, repeat the word ‘quiet’, while holding out a toy or treat for him. When he stops barking for a few seconds, give him the toy or treat, while praising him and repeating the word ‘quiet’. Repeat, Reward and Reinforce.

Once he’s learnt about ‘speak’ and ‘quiet’, you should be able to say ‘quiet’ at any time and get him to stay silent. Just remember to praise him like mad when he gets it right.

The next step is to train him not to bark when you leave him home on his own. To do so, you’ll simply have to pretend to go out and return, over and over and over. As you’re about to ‘go out’, take him through his ‘speak’ and ‘quiet’ routine and praise him for his efforts. Then come straight inside again and praise him for being quiet. Next time, stay out a little longer. And so on and on.

Sure your neighbours will think you’ve finally gone mad. But it’s a lot better than the real thing.

How can I stop my dog from digging?

Training your dog not to dig up the garden.

Some dogs are bred specially to burrow after rabbits and badgers. So whether he’s digging for fun, food or Australia, he’s really not doing it just to drive you crazy. Still, you don’t have to let him turn your garden into an archaeological excavation.

First make sure he’s getting enough exercise or isn’t just bored. You can also try to distract him with other activities when he starts digging. However, in all probability you’ll simply have to give up a small ‘digging area’ and regularly bury biscuits, bones and chew toys in it for him to find. If you can confine this to a plastic sandpit, you’re ahead of the game.

How can I stop my dog from roaming?

He can smell smells you would never dream ever existed. So no wonder he wants to explore the outside world when he gets the chance. Even if that means running off on his own. So how can he be trusted to stay safely at home instead of burrowing his way to freedom? Easy. Give him more exercise by exploring that outside world with him. Keep his mind busy by training him to do something new. And keep reinforcing the all-important 'Come back' command.

PUPPY CARE ADVICE

How do I join the Pedigree™ Puppy Club?

It only takes a minute to register for the Pedigree™ Puppy Club and receive month-by-month advice on how to care for your puppy.

Introducing your puppy to his new home

No matter how much love you give him, your puppy’s first few days away from his mother and siblings will be just a little traumatic. So when you bring him home, you need to give him your undivided attention. That way you can show him around, feed him, play with him and get him nice and tired before bedtime.

Start by letting him sniff around, then introduce him to his bed. Put a blanket from his old litter in it that smells of his mother. Then let him explore his surroundings at his own pace.

If you have young children, they can easily play with him too much and overtire him. Make it a rule that they must never wake him up when he’s sleeping. Unlike babies, puppies know when they need to sleep, but once asleep, don’t disturb them.

If you have other dogs or other pets, make a fuss of them too or they’ll be extremely jealous. Start by keeping them apart and feeding them apart. But once they’re introduced, they should end up the best of friends. Even your cat can learn to get along.

Don’t get cross with your puppy when he decorates the floor or you’ll only make him insecure. Instead, leave out loads of newspaper or special puppy mats and take him outside every half hour or so and after every meal. And give him lots of praise whenever he relieves himself outside.

Try and get him used to being on his own. For the first few nights, he’ll probably be restless and whimper when he’s all alone. A hot water bottle and a ticking clock wrapped in a blanket can be very reassuring. But don’t worry too much - he’ll soon be the happiest little puppy in the world.

See our selection of Pedigree™ puppy foods.

Problem-free mealtimes

Puppies need a consistent feeding routine. Ensure that his mealtimes are problem-free by sticking to the following advice.

Small dogs eat less food, more often. Give your puppy the same number of meals each day, as follows:

• Small puppies: 4 to 5 small meals a day until he’s 10 weeks old.
• From 10 weeks to 5 months: 3 meals a day.
• After the 5th or 6th month: 2 meals a day.

Your puppy’s internal clock will start his digestive juices going at exactly dinnertime, whether you’ve put out his food or not. If you don’t keep a routine, he either won’t be hungry when you put his food out, or waiting too long could give him tummy problems.

A proper dog bowl is best, made from a material that won’t scratch, is easy to clean, isn’t too large and has edges that are not too high. A non-slip bottom will mean that he won’t slide it all over the floor. As he gets bigger, he’ll probably need a bigger, deeper bowl. And if he has long ears, find a narrow bowl that’ll keep them out of his food.

Make sure he’s not disturbed while eating or he’ll get used to eating in fits and starts, or begin spreading his food around the house.

Give him up to 30 minutes to eat. After that, remove any uneaten food and serve fresh food at the next meal. However, water should be available at all times.

After eating, your puppy may need some peace and quiet or a nap to help him digest his food properly. So plan walkies for before, not after, his mealtime!

See our selection of Pedigree™ puppy foods.

Why is my puppy scratching his head/ears so much?

Is your puppy shaking his head or scratching his ears excessively? Check whether there’s a smell coming from his ears, or if you can see a thick crusty substance like ground coffee. If so, he’s probably got ear mites: tiny crab-like parasites that usually live in dogs’ ear canals.

Ear mites feed on earwax and other secretions in the ear canal, and while ear mites usually don’t bite they can cause severe inflammation and discomfort. While they’re troublesome and persistent, they’re easily diagnosed and you can treat them at home.

First, visit your vet to make sure that the problem isn’t caused by an infection instead. If your diagnosis is confirmed, your vet will clean out your puppy’s ears and prescribe anti-mite eardrops. It’ll take 4-6 weeks to get rid of the ear mites but watch out, they may take up residence somewhere else instead, like at the base of your puppy’s tail.

So you’ll also need to use flea powder or spray on your puppy’s whole body, as well as any other furry pets you may, throughout the treatment period.

Socialising your young puppy

From 6 to 12 weeks, puppies are most responsive to new people, places and other puppies.

Making sure that your puppy has plenty of happy interactions at this age is really important to his development. A good idea is to find a puppy class where your puppy can meet and play with other puppies and develop his social skills.

Note that even though your puppy will not be fully covered by its vaccinations, vets usually allow puppies to socialise in controlled situations after their first vaccination.

In other outdoor situations, it’s very important that you carry your puppy at all times, as he’s not allowed onto the ground in areas where other dogs may have been until after his second vaccination.

At home, introduce him to noisy and unusual objects like vacuum cleaners, washing machines, prams and bicycles. Then get out and about to introduce him to traffic, buses, and as wide a variety of adults and children as possible. Reward him constantly with patting, praise and tasty treats.

Find out about Pedigree™ Cheesy BitesTM

When should I switch to adult food?

Puppies grow up to twelve times faster than human babies do. So it’s no wonder they need a specialist puppy food with extra energy, protein, calcium and phosphorus. So an adult diet, too early, can actually result in abnormalities, especially with the bones and joints. But when is it the right time to switch to adult food?

Time till maturity - a rough guide

Considering all the different sizes and shapes of dogs, the amount of time that they take to become physically mature varies hugely. But here’s a rough guide:

• Toy, small and medium breeds such as Chihuahuas, Border Terriers and Springer Spaniels take 9-12 months to become mature.
• Large breeds like Labradors and Retrievers take 12-15 months.
• Giant breeds like Great Danes and Newfoundlands take 18-24 months.

Cut the milk early

Contrary to popular belief, milk is not essential for weaned puppies. In fact, puppies grow less and less able to digest milk as they grow up, and large amounts can cause diarrhoea.

Can I feed my puppy adult food?

Puppies and adult dogs have different calorie and nutritional requirements, our diets are specially prepared with this in mind.

Occasionally eating the wrong food for his/her developmental stage will not harm your puppy, however, we would not recommend that you feed your puppy adult food on a regular basis as your puppy has specific nutritional requirements to help him grow up to be happy and healthy.

Also different breeds become physically mature at different ages so don’t be tempted to switch onto adult food too soon.

How can I get my puppy to switch to Pedigree® puppy food?

Any dietary change should be made slowly to avoid any tummy upset. Gradually introduce the new diet over a 5-10 day period by mixing very small amounts of the new diet with the old diet.

Mix the new diet into the food by adding a spoonful at a time, until the whole meal consists of the new diet.

My puppy isn’t eating very well - is there anything I can do to make the food more appealing?

Puppies may go off their food from time to time and there are a number of ways of encouraging them to eat:

Try heating canned/pouch food to body temperature before feeding.

Dry food can also be heated in the microwave for a few seconds. This can enhance the aroma and encourage your puppy to eat. Usually ten to fifteen seconds is enough time depending on your microwave. Check the temperature before you offer the food to your puppy.

Dry food can be moistened by adding hot (not boiling) water. Offer the food to your puppy when the meal has cooled and the food has soaked up the water. If feeding dry food on its own try mixing a small amount of Pedigree® Puppy Pouch™ into the feed so that the kibble is well coated.

Can I soften Pedigree® Puppy Complete with water before feeding?

Most puppies enjoy the crunch of dry food however there may be times when you may want to soften the dry food, for example when your puppy is teething and his gums may be a little sore.

Moisten the dry food by adding hot (not boiling) water. Offer the food to your puppy when the meal has cooled and the food has soaked up the water.

Dry feeding should be encouraged because of the benefit to your puppy’s dental health.

When will my puppy lose his puppy teeth?

The adult teeth replace the milk or deciduous teeth at about 4-6 months of age. A little soreness during this period is entirely normal, and you will probably notice your puppy chewing slightly more at this time. If some of the deciduous teeth appear not to be falling out, please consult your veterinary surgeon, who can remove these "retained teeth" if necessary.

Should I brush my puppy’s teeth?

A puppy’s mouth will generally be free from tartar, gum infections and bad breath.

For grown-up dogs, Pedigree® Denta Rask™ and Pedigree® DentaStix™ have been designed to help maintain healthy teeth and gums. Both Pedigree® Denta Rask™ and Pedigree® DentaStix™ can prevent oral hygiene problems in puppies by reducing the build up of plaque and tartar. Both treats have a unique shape and texture specifically designed to gently, but effectively, remove dental deposits from your puppy’s teeth.

Feeding a dry diet can also help, as the abrasive action of the dry food helps to reduce the accumulation of plaque.

A dog with good dental hygiene has a much better quality of life, and good teeth are often seen as the basis for a healthy animal. Please contact your veterinary surgeon who will be able to offer you advice on preventative dental treatment to help delay any dental problems arising.

How can I stop my puppy from chewing?

A: Chewing is healthy puppy activity, especially when they need to ease the pain of teething. But you can distract your puppy from gnawing your furniture by offering him specially bought chew toys suitable for his age and size. Don’t give him any old household items: he won’t be able to differentiate between an old slipper and a new shoe!

Some dogs display chewing behaviour as a result of separation anxiety. If there seems to be a specific object that your dog repeatedly chews, try to prevent any unsupervised access. Toys designed to alleviate separation anxiety often have food hidden inside for your puppy to get out. These can provide hours of happy distraction.

Why does my puppy need vaccinations?

The purpose of the vaccinations is to protect your puppy against diseases, some of which are life threatening and can be spread quite easily to other dogs.

Your puppy’s first vaccination will normally be at about 8 weeks of age, with a second dose given at approximately 10-12 weeks. Your puppy will not have full protection until approximately 2 weeks after the second vaccination has been given. Yearly booster vaccinations are given to maintain your dog’s immunity.

The diseases that your vet can vaccinate your puppy against are canine distemper, canine parvovirus, canine parainfluenza virus, canine infectious hepatitis, leptospirosis and bordatella bronchiseptca (kennel cough). Your puppy will not be vaccinated against kennel cough as a matter of routine, but it is advised for dogs that have a lot of contact with other dogs, such as at dog training classes, dog shows, or for dogs that are going into kennels.

Should I have my puppy microchipped?

A microchip will provide a permanent and tamperproof method of identification. It’s about the size of a grain of rice and is implanted under the skin of your pet, usually at the back of his neck. Each chip has a unique code that can be identified by a scanner, which most vets, police stations, and rescue centres now have.

A central database holds all the information relating to the pet such as his name, colour, breed, sex, age and the owner’s address and contact details. This means that if your pet is found without his collar, the chip will be able to reunite you. If you change your address or phone number, remember to update your details with the database (the chip itself remains the same).

Microchips can be implanted at most ages and it’s convenient to have it done at the same time as a vaccination. Some vets prefer to do the implant at the time of second vaccination so as not to stress your puppy at his first vaccination, which is often his first visit to the vet.

Microchips have become commonplace, possibly due to the requirement for pets to have one when travelling overseas. It is also a very quick, safe and cheap way to permanently identify your pet. The best person to discuss the microchip and its cost with is your vet.

Even if your puppy is microchipped, a collar and identity tag is still required by law. You could be fined if you fail to comply.

How often should I worm my puppy?

Dogs are prone to two types of worms, the roundworm and tapeworm. It is not always obvious that a dog has worms so regular worming is advised as a precaution. Puppies should be wormed as soon as they are of an appropriate age. Your veterinary surgeon can advise you as to when this will be and suggest a suitable wormer.

Treatments for worms should be obtained from your veterinary practice. This will ensure that they are effective against the various types of worms and will be suitable for your puppy. The treatments come in many different forms such as powders, tablets, pastes and liquids. If you have any problems giving medication your vet or veterinary nurse should be able to dose your puppy for you.

Worming should be repeated according to the manufacturer’s instructions - usually every 4 months. A puppy that has had fleas should be wormed more frequently as fleas often carry worm larvae.

I think my puppy has fleas, what should I do?

The most common flea in Britain is the cat flea, but it will live happily on dogs, rabbits and humans. With warm summers and milder winters, central heating and carpeted floors, fleas can be a problem all year round.

Flea control is easy, and there are many different methods of flea control available from various outlets. Many flea products are specifically designed according to the size of your pet. Your vet can provide you with suitable treatment that will not harm your puppy. If you have other dogs or a cat, it is important to treat them all at the same time.

Fleas often carry tapeworm larvae, so your puppy can be easily infected by swallowing a flea whilst grooming. So make sure that your puppy is also treated for worms if he has fleas.

Remember to treat the local environment for fleas! The actual flea that you see represents only a very small amount of the total infestation. The eggs are very difficult to see and even if you have treated your puppy, the carpets and bedding will probably still be housing eggs.

Regular vacuuming will help to keep fleas at bay. There are also household flea sprays available. The most effective ones can be purchased from your veterinary surgery.

Find out more about Pedigree® DentaStix™ and Pedigree® Denta Rask™

My puppy still isn’t toilet trained. Help!

There’s nothing more frustrating than a puppy that’s not toilet trained. But believe it or not, with non-stop vigilance and patience, you can house train him in just three weeks – starting right away. With his lead on, put him on some newspaper or a puppy mat at the designated spot in the garden. Tell him what to do, wait (and wait and wait) until he does it, then praise him to the skies and give him a tasty treat.

Then watch him like a hawk. The moment he starts to ‘circle and sniff’, take him to the newspaper or puppy mat, give the command and follow up with praise and a treat. (At night, you’ll need to set your alarm at three-hourly intervals, at least for the first month.)

Make notes of his toileting schedule so you don’t get caught out. Fortunately, he’ll get the idea after a week or two and give a bark or two to warn you – ignore this at your peril. Just make sure you’re extra patient with him. Accidents will happen, so keep a generous supply of newspapers or puppy mats spread around the house and clean up quickly – lingering scents will encourage repeat behaviour.

If your questions are not answered then please don't hesitate to send us a message or call us on 0800 738 800 and we will respond to your enquiry as soon as possible.